Gr 5–8—Art historian and biographer Rubin, who has written about art heavyweights such as Diego Rivera, Andy Warhol, René Magritte, and many others, turns to one of the first fashion designers to consider herself an artist (long before every fashionisto/fashionista made this same claim). Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) defied tradition and set out to shock and amuse with her designs. The Paris-based designer collaborated with surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, creating lobster-embellished gowns, hats that looked like upturned shoes, and suits with drawers like a wardrobe. The collaborations were a two-way street: she influenced the artists as much as they did her. The author reminds us that the groundbreaking designer invented many things we consider fashion staples now: the color "Shocking Pink," now called hot pink; fur booties; wedge heels; bolero jackets; shoulder bags. She was also the first designer to "brand herself," licensing her name to many adjunct products (her frenemy and contemporary Coco Chanel only attached her name to her company's perfumes). This is an attractive volume (shocking pink, of course), with large, high-quality photos. Though certain highlights of Schiap's personal life are mentioned, this book concentrates on her creative work. There's a bit of pinkwashing here: some accounts of Schiaparelli mothering skills are less benevolent than Rubin's, and a mention of how Schiap disliked even five minutes' tardiness from her employees speaks volumes.
VERDICT This is a stirring account of a strong-willed, one-of-a-kind woman who made it big and did it her way. Her story will inspire young creative types and anybody who feels like an outsider.
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